DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE

Image courtesy of  http://dmytry.com/

IndiaLiving has given me a different perspective. My live is peaceful. Without the continuous bombardment of television commercials and programming I have discovered the less stuff I have, the happier I have become. I removed myself from politics and the rat race of the world and made some discoveries through reading and reflection. I guess you could say I have detached.

My understanding of God has changed.  God is good, Pure Love, Pure Light incapable of creating evil. God is not a judgemental or a punishing God.  Because He did not want to impose His will on man, He gave us free will.  It is man who has created evil in this world.

I have learned that country, political party, skin-color and gender do not define me. That is not who I am. I am a soul. Genesis 1:27- God created man in his own image. I am a part of what some call God, Pure Energy, Source, the Great I Am. I am a soul encased in a human body, having a human experience.  My soul chose to incarnate into this body called Cindy to learn the lessons that I need to learn and to have experiences I need to have in order to achieve Perfection.  Perfection is to let go of ego and to love unconditionally. Not easy by any means.

Knowing that we choose the life we are living and choose to endure certain experiences makes forgiveness a litter easier. If I am abused in this life, perhaps I was the abuser my previous life.  I need to learn both sides of the issue in order  to forgive and love unconditionally. I no longer am concerned about world events or outcomes. No matter what happens to my body or my world, the real me, who I really am, soul will continue. I will never die. My God, Source of all Creation is Pure, Radiant, and loves unconditionally. The I Am that I Am is not a judgemental angry God ready to punish us for our sins. Having given us free will, He expects nothing from us. He is a Loving God with Infinite Patience and Understanding.  He loves us unconditionally without judgement.  I will never be doomed to hell for committing a sin.  I will simply endure reincarnations until I get it right.  If I commit evil during this lifetime, my next life will not be pleasant.

When my body, known as Cindy dies; the real me, soul energy will become free once again. Other more advanced souls will help me to review my human life experience. Together we will determine what life lessons I learned and what future life experiences I need to continue to grow towards enlightenment. After a rest and reflection, I will choose to reincarnate again to continue my education. As I increase my understanding and perfection; at some point I will no longer need to reincarnate. As an Enlightened Soul, I will be able to help other souls to continue on their journey toward enlightenment. I will grow closer to and become more like the Divine Source, Creator of all.

Did I have to come to India to gain this understanding? No. This is where I happened to unplug from the constant mind control of the TV and began to read and seek answers to the questions I have had for a long time.  Do I have all the answers? No.  Is my path the path you must take? No.  You must discover your own.  Just as there are many roads to your city, town or village, there are many roads to the I Am.

RAM HAS HIS DRIVER'S LICENSE

Ram, after four months finally has his Indian driver’s license.  During the process he asked for a traffic rules manual.  There is none.  After many trips to Haldwani and a lengthy time consuming process, he was given a learners permit.  He was told to return to the RTO (Regional Traffic Office) after one month to get his regular driver’s license.  He did.  At that time he was given another form to fill out.  It was complicated and confusing.  He wound up hiring an agent to assist him.  Two days later he returned to the RTO with the completed form and fee.  There was no written test.  The RTO officer asked him where his car was.  Ram pointed to it.  The officer asked him to bring it around to the front of the office.  This area was a congested jumble of parked vehicles of all types and sizes.  There were no marked parking spaces and no designated traffic path.  Drivers in vehicles with honking horns and pedestrians were trying to get into and out of this area.  Ram asked his driver to bring the car around.  THAT WAS THE TEST!!  Ram was given documentation stating he was a qualified driver and told his driver’s license would arrive in the mail.  It did five days days later.

This is the link to the unofficial driving rules in India.  It is funny and very true.

http://learningindia.in/the-unwritten-rules-of-driving-in-india/

WATER WOES

Living in India often makes me appreciate things I took for granted in the United States.  Tap water is one of them.  Turn on the water tap and clean water flows.  This is not necessarily so in India.

India has a water crisis.  Most of India’s lakes, rivers and ground water are contaminated. There are many causes: poor infrastructure, unregulated industry, unmanaged garbage and untreated sewage. More than one half of Indian households have no toilets. Water scarcity is another problem. This is cause by poor water management and a burgeoning population.

Patna.  Sadly this is not an exception

One would not expect to have to order a tanker of water in the middle of the monsoon.  However, it turns out in our neighbourhood a heavy rain causes sand to build up in the water pipes.  When this happens the water is simply shut off and the sand settles.  In a few days it is turned on again.  If we are lucky, we have enough water in our water storage tank that is below our house and will not have to order a water tanker.  This storage tank supplies our cottage and three others.  Last year this was not a problem. We were the only continuously occupied cottage.  This year the cottage above us was turned into a construction shack and home for the dozen or so construction workers.  Needless to say they go through the water faster than we do.  Whoever is more desperate for water orders and pays for the tanker.  If we wind up paying, we deduct the cost from our monthly rent.  Occasionally there is a dispute in the neighbourhood.  Someone will block the water supply line for spite.  Usually it doesn't take long to figure out where the blockage is and fix it.  The supply line is also located near the road and is not buried in places.  It often breaks when heavy trucks or buses run over it.

This water tanker is pumping water into our water storage tank below our cottage.  From there it is pumped up into the smaller black water storage tanks on the roof.  The pipes on the road behind the tanker are water supply lines.

This hose is feeding water from the tanker into the large storage tank below our cottage.

Large water storage tank located below our cottage.

Every morning we turn on the water pump to pump the water stored below up into the smaller storage tank on the roof. We know the roof tank is full when we hear the water overflowing.  This is difficult to hear during a hard rain.  Water is wasted when our neighbours or we forget to turn  the pump off.  We use this water for all of our water needs.  Monkeys often remove the cover from this tank.  I hate to think about how filthy the water could become.  Bird and monkey poop come to mind.  We boil then filter water used for cooking and drinking.   Ram had the lid replaced and wired shut.

KAMLA IS BACK

                                                                     

One of the first things we did after we settled in this area was to hire domestic help.  Kamla was the first.  After hearing about our family’s difficulties with domestic help and according to blogs I've read, I was lucky to find Kamila.  She worked well with little supervision and always had a smile and laughed a lot.  Months later she changed.  She became argumentative and somewhat difficult.  She also looked like she did not feel well.  We sent her to our Doctor.  It turned out she was pregnant.  The Doctor told her she could not do heavy work and walking over the mountain to work was not advised.  We had to let her go.  That is when we hired Madhu.

Recently, Ram happened to see Kamla during one of his morning walks.  She wanted to come back to work with us.  Ram explained we already had Madhu working for us.  A couple of weeks later Kamla came to see me.  She again asked to come back to work.  She almost cried when I told her it was not possible.  Madhu is working for us.  She left.  I almost cried.  I could tell she really needed the work.  I felt I could not fire Madhu without good reason.

 Not long after Kamla’s visit, Madhu had more and more family emergencies.  She was gone more than she was here.  One day Madhu told me she had to go to Haldwani to see her brother and would not come to work the next day.  She did not call or show up for three days.  She did not answer her phone.  When she did finally show up we fired her.  Because of Kamla’s previous argumentative ways we were hesitant to have her work for us again.  We decided to give it a try.   Kamla came back the same day we let Madhu go!

Kamla’s story has slowly come out.  She has been through a lot.  She had emergency neuro surgery.  It started with a head ache that became worse and worse.  From what she and her husband have said it sounds like she had a brain tumor removed.  That could also account for her personality change that we saw last year.  She also lost her baby.  The doctors told her husband she had a one percent chance to survive.  Everyone was trying to prepare for the worst.  She spent twenty four days in the ICU.  The surgery cost one lakh or $1667.00 USD.  That is a lot of money here.  Her entire village rallied around her.  Not only did they manage to raise the money but they cared for her three children so her husband could be with her.  Kamla told me that she prayed that she could come back to work for us.  To be an answer to ones prayer tugs at my hart and seems like an awesome responsibility.

Kamla’s sweet smiling personality is back.  It seems difficult for her to multitask.  It takes her longer to do household tasks.  I don’t care.  I am glad to have her back. 

DOMESTIC HELP, A MIXED BLESSING

Domestic help here in India is almost a necessity. Because of dusty agriculture, construction and road dirt, the home environment gets dirty very quickly. Floors must be swept and wet moped daily. Most households do not have washing machines and dryers. Food preparation is labor intensive. Frozen foods, packaged foods and mixes are not widely used. This is especially true in rural areas. Domestic labor is inexpensive and available. Sometimes I find it more convenient to send someone to the market. If one has money one is expected to employ household help. This supports poor families.  Many households, especially those with children, employ several servants including a driver.

I have found that domestic help is trying at times. Madhu, my cook/ housekeeper is usually very good. She is a mature married woman with a grown family. Unfortunately her parents are no longer living. She is the eldest girl in her family. Therefore, according to Indian custom, when a family member is sick she must care for them. She has two daughters that are to be married soon. The weddings and all the planning are her responsibility.  Weddings transpire over three days.  Madhu will not always available to us. She still expects to get paid. This is reasonable to a point. When she works, she works seven days a week. We encouraged her to take a set day off each week. She does not want to do that. This is the norm for this area.

Madhu’s brother was hit by a motorcycle resulting in a broken leg.  He needs surgery. The hospital wants 35000 rupees up front before they will do the surgery. We wound up giving Madhu two months cash advance on her salary. This we gladly did. Her family came up with the rest. Unfortunately hr brother is not married. It falls to Madhu to care for him. She has gone for a month and arranged for her sister-in-law, Supna to work in her place. Supna’s reputation has preceded her. She is well known in the area. We hear that she has been fired by several households because they could not put up with her work habits and attitude. This has proven true. Supna is argumentative. She states there are things she won’t do, ironing being one. We informed her is expected do the same tasks as Madhu.  She will work the same hours and receive the same salary as Madhu.

Evidently, Supna complained to Madhu that we require her to do too much work. Madhu sent her daughter, Poonam to help Supna. They will share the money. Supna is still not happy. She keeps telling me, “This is Poonam’s job and that is Poonam’s job.” Now there's more discord in my house. Madhu works well without direction and does a good job with no argument. I must tell these girls when and how to do everything. I find it necessary to follow closely behind them to make sure they have done what I asked. Supna especially tries to cut corners and is argumentative. I don’t know which is worse, doing everything myself or going behind Supna and having her to do something over three times.

I told Ram I can do without Supna. If Poonam will do the rest of the household chores, I can manage the cooking. Anyway, Supna's cooking is not that good.  He has already explored that option. Poonam will not come here by herself. She is afraid of the monkeys that she will encounter on the way. It sounds like Poonam does not want to work either. It is going to be a long month. I am close to firing Supna.  If Poonam does not want to work by herself so be it.  I want my peaceful home back.

NOT EASY FOR AN EXPAT TO GET A DRIVER'S LICENSE

One would think getting an Indian driver’s license would be fairly straight forward.  All that is needed are three passport size photos, ID and proof of address.  A learner’s permit is given after a medical exam and a written test is passed.   After one month, if a driving test is passed a driver’s license is granted.  This is easy for Indian citizens, but not so for Expats.  At least this is our experience.  

Prior to going to the Regional Transport Office (RTO), Ram tried calling for information. No information could be obtained by phone. Appointments cannot be made.   Ram went to the nearest Regional Transport Office (RTO) in Haldwani which is an hour and a half drive from our residence. After waiting for several hours he was told he needs a Voter ID card, Ration card, electric bill receipt, phone bill receipt or property tax bill to prove legal residency. Only Indian citizens will have a Voter ID and a Ration card. Our electric and water is included in our rent. We have no phone bill.  Our local bank statement with our address was not accepted as proof. After much debate the RTO Officer decided our rental agreement would work as proof of residency.  Ram came home tired and irritable.  The RTO building is constructed with concrete and without insulation.  There is no fans or air-conditioning.  There is a small window and door for ventilation.  Basically he spent hours in a hot box and managed to get little done.  

Ram obtained a photocopy of our rental agreement and three passport size photos. Again he made the hour and a half trip to the RTO hot box in Haldwani. After waiting several hours to meet with the RTO Officer, Ram was given an application to fill out and told the original rental agreement is needed for inspection. Our landlord was not available on short notice.  Another trip to Haldwani will be necessary.  

Ram, prior to trip three to Haldwani was able to arrange for our landlord to give the original copy of our rental agreement for the RTO Officer to inspect. Unfortunately the RTO Officer was tied up in a meeting until 2 PM. He was very apologetic for not being available and for Ram’s long wait.  After this hot and uncomfortable wait, the RTO Officer told Ram the original rental agreement must be registered at the court in Nainital. Nainital is an hour and a half drive from Haldwani. Too bad Ram was not told this during his previous trip. It would have saved one trip to Haldwani.   

Ram feels there is little chance of our landlord’s cooperation. Our contract is up and we are now renting month to month. Some needed repairs to our cottage have been requested and not done.  We are strongly thinking of moving to another rental cottage.  Our landlord is not inclined to make a three hour round trip to register the agreement.  However, it looks like the application has been approved according to the instructions written on the application by the RTO Officer.   We hope the Officer will be understanding and not demand the registration of the agreement.  Ram was told to appear Monday 6/30/2014. 

  

Considering the difficulty of getting a license and the availability of drivers, one might wonder why we still persist with the quest of a Driver’s license.  There have been instances where a photo ID and proof of address was needed.  We cannot get an Indian credit card without a photo ID and proof of address.  Many vendors do not accept American credit cards.  If they do, there is an added fee.  When we stay in a hotel, a photo ID is requested.  The same goes for a rental home.  When we show our passports and visas the price seems to go up.  

We do understand the need for caution by the Indian authorities. They take every precaution due to recent terrorist bombings. This is something the United States needs to take more seriously.

Up Date:  Monday 6/30/2014 5:41 PM    Ram has returned form the RTO in Haldwani.  Per the written instructions given by the RTO Officer Ram attempted to pay the learner’s permit fees.  The clerk refused the fees saying there was something missing.  The RTO Officer was needed to resolve the issue.  He was not available.  We are not surprised.  It’s India.  Disappointed, yes.

INDIA, OFTEN A BUMPY RIDE

Our India adventure began January 2013. A year and a half later we are still here. I have learned how some things work. It seems to me, it’s more difficult for expats to live and find happiness here. Layers upon layers of bureaucracy make our lives difficult. I am sometimes ready to throw in the towel and go back to the States.

Ram’s Over Seas Citizen visa is a permanent visa.  It gives him all the rights of an Indian citizen, except the right to vote. Funny, the right to vote opens many doors for Indian citizens that are closed to expats. A voter ID (proof of Indian citizenship) is required to get cooking gas. The cost of cooking gas is subsidized by the government.  Only Indian citizens can buy it. We will never have a voter ID card. The voter ID card is also used for official proof of address. Without proof of address one cannot get a phone, open a bank account, get an Indian credit card or get a driver’s license.  Many vendors do not take American credit cards.  There is an extra fee for those that do.

Things simply do not work well here. Most Indians are unaware of the inconveniences and lack of decent infrastructure.  They have never known anything else unless they have lived overseas.   A Google search does not yield the same results here as it does in the States. There is no such thing as a phone book, at least where we are. This is probably because most of India’s population relies on cell phones. A land line is difficult to get. There is a long wait time for installation. We hear the service is unreliable. Word of mouth is the only reliable way to find a local business, service, domestic help or real estate for rent. Local tea stalls are the best place to find information that would be typically found in the phone book. There has been a time or two when I have found a local business and phone number with an Intranet search.  When I call, they do not answer the phone or they have no information about a product I want.  Power is intermittent. We experience rolling blackouts several times a day, sometimes for a few minutes and sometimes for hours. We have noticed increasing frequent power outages.

I find it very annoying that expats are perceived as being wealthy.  Expats are expected to pay more than Indian citizens. We have actually been told this by a person with an in your face attitude. This same person told us that he was glad to see American companies fail here.  What he does not understand is American companies choose to leave because of the lack of infrastructure and excessive bureaucratic red tape.  Things take a very long time to get anything done unless bribes are given. This has been a way of life since India's independence was won from the British. Older Indians will tell you life was much better under British rule.  We hear the black underground economy actually twice as large as India’s legal economy.

Even so, we have managed thus far. Somehow we have survived the bureaucracy and the inconvenience. We buy cooking gas on the black market. We have, we think managed to scrape enough documents together to prove we have a permanent address. With is documentation Ram will try to get his driver’s license.  With the license we will have proof of residence.  Hopefully more doors will open for us.  Most likely it will take a bribe. It’s expected. 

Why stay? This is a question we are asking ourselves more often. Perhaps now that India has overwhelmingly elected a conservative Prime Minister, things will get better.  Time will tell.  For the next two years we will travel India to see and experience her diverse cultures. I’m especially anxious to visit Rajasthan, home of Ram’s Rajput ancestors.  I do for the most part enjoy my day to day life here.  We have made some good friends.  It will be hard to leave and not easy to stay.